SkellyStone - Seed Pixel- Halloween Tombstone Gravestone

This is another in my collection of props using seed pixels. This time a slight departure and one for Halloween.

For my first foray into to this I have chosen something that on the face of it was fairly simple. But, I like to do things a little different than just copy props and so my version of a tombstone includes back lit a skeleton skull and RIP sign (lets call it a SkellyStone).

There are 63 pixels, 52 of which are used for the tombstone outline(s) and a further 11 to illuminate the RIP sign and skull. I lined up the background pixels to "skelly's" eyes and mouth, which I think look pretty effective when controlled separately through something like Xlights..

I made the skull and RIP sign two tone, allowing the seed pixels on the backplate to illuminate them through the diffused white element of the print. Although printed on my Bambu P1S, it doesn't need an AMS as the single colour change is made at a layer. So its just a matter of pausing the print and changing the filament before resuming. Both of these are spaced off the face of the tombstone by about 6mm (1/4"), and held on with M4 (or similar) screws. I used black countersunk screws which are "hidden" in the black plastic layer. You can off-course just paint over the top of them as well, or just use black marker pen.

The tombstone is about 36cm (14.2") high by 26cm (10.2")wide. Not huge, but I aim to fix this to a slightly bigger wooden backing and use some sort of plinth for holding it down on the front lawn. Even at this size it would also look effective with quite a few of these on the front lawn, as part of your own graveyard scene or lining a walkway. You could even changed the screw-on elements to give some variation. I am thinking of adding a pumpkin, grim reaper or witches silhouette etc, but as a start I printed a couple of spiders and just stuck them on the tombstone with double sided tape. In case you want to do the same I have included the STL for them.

You can use 5V or 12V seed pixels and if you use 100mm spacing the Xlight wiring model (included) allows for a single strand (no s or splices needed) of 63 pixels. The seed lights I used were very cheap from Aliexpress (for example https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007272123397.html ) and they came with a small USB controller and remote remote, which was sufficient for testing. Make sure lights work before installing them. They are ok, but there are better quality ones available. In UK/Europe I recommend that you look at https://buildalightshow.com/ for the lights (and lots of other holiday lighting stuff).

The prop will fit most size of seed pixels, but if you have any issues with the fit please me and I may be able to assist.

I have included an xlights model for the tombstone, but it must be wired as per the supplied diagrams for this to work. The wiring diagram can also be shown in Xlights when you load the model into you layout; right click on model and choose wiring diagram. This will bring up the REAR view of the wiring diagram. The xlight model is set up with a few submodel (vertical, horizontals, Skelly eyes and mouth, RIP sign etc,,), I am sure you can come up with your own to meet your specific requirement.

Enjoy and if you have any issues please me.

Printing
This was printed on my Bambu P1S. I used grey PLA (I didn't have any PETG) for the tombstone and black and white PETG for Skelly and RIP sign (and the spider...). Settings are 0.2mm layers,15% gyroid fill, 3 wall loops and 3 top and bottom layers. No s were needed.

The tombstone is in two parts to fit a 250x250mm bed and is obviously printed on its back. No issues with this but the t was a bit tight and needed tapping home on a flat surface with a hammer. A bit of CA glue on the edges bonds it permanently.

The raised pillars on the tombstone, to affix the skull and RIP sign, take M4 screws and are designed to self-tap. You could drill these holes bigger to suit other sizes of screws.

Skelly's Head and RIP sign.
Print these with their back on bed, starting with white colour. You need to set up a pause to change colour. Three layers are printed of the white .. PAUSE .. change colour to black to allow it to finish. On a bambu P1S you would set a pause at layer 4 (ie this means the coulour change starts at layer 4), change filament, and then resume the print. Both bits came out pretty well and are fixed to the tombstone using M4 screw (Skelly 3 screws, RIP sign 4 screws), I used countersunk ones for Skelly to hide the screws. On the RIP sign it doesn't really matter and round head screws look equally ok.

The spider is a bit thinner and only two layers are printed before colour change.. so pause at Layer 3 on a P1S. The spider isn't illuminated and is just stuck on print with double sided outdoor tape. Gives some added interests and look great during the day.

No fixings are included as I plan to fix this to a wooden back . I am sure, if you want to, you can find some clips to suit and can drill the model for fixing.

Wiring
You can wire this however you like but you will need to set up your own xlights model. If you are using my model it is important that you follow the wiring diagram given. Separate sub-models are given, especially to allow the control the eyes, mouth and RIP signs through Xlights.
To install pixels fold the cable over the pixel, slide this through the centre holes of the light mount, spread out the cable to either end (without twists in cable), and gently push the pixel to lay flat making sure the pixel light is facing the right way with the more "bulbous" side pointing outwards. the lights behind the Skelly and RIP sign sit on the surface moreso, this is because the backplate if quite thin and the pixel iotself wont be seen.
Wiring is designed so that the input/output are at the bottom of the tombstone. I always connect the incoming and outgoing power cables together to help with power balancing. I fit a male plug to the input power and data line and I also install a female socket on the outgoing data cable to allow daisy chaining to other props.