Seed Pixels Peace Stake or Light Sticks

This is a 3D Printed model designed to take Seed pixels. You can use 5 or 12 Volt seed pixels and is designed to take most size seed pixels available.

This is my interpretation of the Peace Stake (so named after the Peace family show..). There are various video on these that use bullet pixels, but I haven't seen many that are designed for seed pixels. The idea is to have a multitude of these within your show., spaced fairly close to each other, normally in a square grid type pattern. There are Xlights models and effects to allow you to provide some spectacular and interesting effects. Alternatively they make great boundary or path markers.

Each stake consists of 9 pixels, and are provided with a number of options for fixing; a ground spike, a flat circular base and a wall mounting. Choose the most suitable for your situation.

To add a further dimension I have provided some files to allow you to print coloured inserts. Keep it holiday themed with greens and reds, or a more celebration theme with red, white and blue. You can even have them multicoloured. I will leave it to you imagination.

The seed pixels are fed through from the back and the seeds sit flat to the model. There is normally no need for any glue for the lights, and the slots will fit most, if not all, seed pixels available, even the slightly larger and thicker cable ones. Importantly - if you use my wiring suggestion you will need 100mm spacing between pixels. The lights I used were very cheap from Aliexpress (for example https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007272123397.html ) and they even came with a small USB controller and remote remote, which was sufficient for testing. They were ok, but there are better quality ones available. In UK/Europe I recommend that you look at https://buildalightshow.com/ for the lights (and lots of other holiday lighting stuff).

I have included a test plate with just two pixels holes in them for you to quickly print (about 17 min print) and check your seed pixels will fit. If you have any issues get back to me and I may be able to help.

Thank you for viewing my models , and thank you in anticipation of your and any .

Printing:
As it will be outside, I printed all components of the prop in PETG. I used 0.2mm layer,4 top and bottom layers, 3 walls and 15% gyroid infill. The largest piece to print is 235x16 mm, it should fit on most printers, although you may have to print it on the diagonal. All the main pieces should be orientated with the back of the prop on the bed of the printer. No s are necessary BUT I did find adding to the main peace stake seemed to give much cleaner holes for the pixels. You have to clear small pieces of from each seed hole, but it is easily done with a small screwdriver and it doesn't add too much to the print time. It takes about 32 mins to print each peace stake on my Bambu P1S.

The spike is printed "upside" down with the top of it on the bed of printer, you may wish to use a brim for this to add a bit of stability as it prints over 4inch high.

The insets are very thin (0.6mm) and i found it best to add these to the peace stakes with a touch of glue or double sided tape if you want the flexibility to change then around. If you want to add the stripes rather than just a single colour (red, white and blue are good for celebration days) it is very easy to cut the inset strips with a knife of scissors.

Assembly:
Not a lot to say here.. The pixel stick sits in the base. It is a tight fit, but you can glue if necessary. Holes are provided for fixing if necessary.

Wiring:
Wiring is up to you, but as you normally have many of these it is best to wire on a hit-one-miss-one basis, as per the diagram. In that way the input and output cable will be at the bottom. Again as you normally have these close to each other you could cut the pixel strip and add connecting wire between stake BUT a better way is to just to continue the string and leave 3 or 4 pixels between each stake. You can either use these pixels as part of the light show or blank them in your xlight model. Although you "waste" a few pixels it is easier for some than having to solder cables.